Saturn v6 timing belt tool

Lifetime Warranty This item is backed by our limited lifetime warranty. Watch video. Check Vehicle Fit. Product Reviews. Loading reviews. Just like stock. Great job I love one a auto I have never had any complaints always get my parts fast and as usual they are just as good as OEM. Honda timing belt kit. It was a perfect fit for my Honda Accord V6 4 door. No issues with installation. Great product! The items were exactly what I expected.

True oem fitment! Shipping was earlier than promised too. Will buy from 1a auto again for all my needs. This kit was a direct replacement for Acura MDX, everything bolted on well and seemed to be of good quality. Bearings seemed robust and tight with no play.

There was a service bulletin and a shim explaining there was an update and using the shim would stop chatter from the timing belt as it went around the idler pulley. The process of replacing the timing belt and water pump was time consuming but very doable, I found a couple of YouTube videos that gave good instruction on how to do it in detail.

That along with the instructions included in this kit made the job much less of a headache, the included instructions also gave the torque specifications of every bolt so that there is no guessing at how tight each bolt should be when reassembling. I follow the advice from a blog where the author stated he soaked the crank pulley bolt with penetrating oil for over a week, I did the same whenever I remembered I would spray the bolt.

This made the removal of it very easy and anti-climacti. Good kit. Fit perfectly. Good quality. Is like original part and fitted exactly. Very good product and the service and shipping fast and secure. Gates are quality replacement parts. All the parts fitted and are of a Gates quality replacement. Works and seems good quality. Everything fit exactly as expected. All parts had the same seams and castings as the factory parts.

The new parts appeared to be made of good quality components. I loved that the timing belt tensioner came pre-locked with a pin so I could go right to the install and pull the pin. However, the pin was tricky to get out, since the ring just unbent when I pulled it. No problem though, it came out with a pair of pliers. Arrived quickly even during the holidays I paid extra for expedited shipping.

I would purchase again. You will be hand cranking the engine many times to get the engine in "time". Once the belt is spot on every cam There is no other way to do this because the belt must be stretched and tensioned throughout every cam to keep the engine in tune.

When all marks are spot on You need to insert the cam locks from the timing kit to lock the cams in place. At this point, you loosen the belt tensioner and set it ahead of the hash mark and even a bit above the timing mark on the tensioner and torque the tensioner in place. Remove the locks and then spin the engine one more time to verify every mark is spot on.

Some times you have to repeat steps until everything is perfectly timed. IT is NOT easy and if you screw up you can kiss your engine good bye! I got extremely lucky I didn't fuk up our engine after the cams all spun. It was a sickening feeling when that happened. The water pump is very easy. Install your cam locks on the old belt cams and replace the water pump before installing the new belt because antifreeze is will soak the belt.

Originally Posted by Rj LS2. Is there a tool for the GM L81 timing belt system such as a socket for the manual turning's Rj has described? Google is showing me other types of sockets for other models Would a engine support mount be more practical for this type of repair attempt situation? Last edited by BrandonKastning; at AM. Reason: add a question. The timing belt kit will have a crank socket with it.

I used a jack with a block on wood to support the engine and transmission from underneath. Only one engine mount needs to be removed. There are other Engine mounts so the jack is only used to take pressure off the one you need to remove. Using an engine lift is the recommended method, but both work if you are gentle. Here's a couple tips before you begin this timing belt replacement. After you start rotating the engine the actual belt marks are erroneous.

The marks you want to align are the on the cam sprockets, the crank mark and the marks on the plastic timing belt cover. The crank mark must be straight down and the cam sprocket marks will remain static with the plastic cam cover marks.

The belt marks are only useful for the initial installation of the belt on to the cams. After that The designers purposely made the belt "off" a bit so the same tooth doesn't always land on the same belt "tooth".

It extends the life of the belt. The belt marks will actually rotate one tooth per rotation of the engine. In other words, use the belt marks once and then forget them. I suggest you watch a bunch of these to understand the basics before trying to replace the timing belt.

It is the same engines as the 3. Some videos show installing the belt from left to right instead of the way I did it. However, there was this one video which I can't find today which explicitly showed how to re-time the engine by installing the belt right to left, and which way to rotate each cam in order to correctly set the locations of all cams to time the engine properly. That is the method I had to use after all cams let loose. If you manage to get your cams locked without issue However, I believe the Right to left method I used works best to properly "fit" the belt and setup the correct tension between all components.

You could simply toss the belt on any old way, but if you don't rotate the engine by hand over and over again, while checking the marks at TDC Also, don't over tighten any component. These bolts can't take too much force. The main tensioner is only 15 ftlbs which to me seems way to light, but it works as it should. Yes I used a kit which had pensioners and both idlers and belt.

All marks were spot on according to tool. So you used the OTC took that goes over the cams to check the timing marks? That less then 6 volts to those fuses sounds like a problem. I have seen problem with the fuse boxes also look for something labeled main V6 in the underhood fuse box.

I have seen issues with those causing no starts Was this answer. Yes the otc tool. The main v6 fuse has 12v. My main issue besides the no start is there are no dash warning lights coming on with key on engine off.

Those fuses are ignition switch feeds so the first thing in would do is dig in an see why they show less then 6 volts. When I am at home I don't have access to dealerworld for some reason so can't look at a diagram to see where those fuses get power from.

Is there a fuse link some where that could have burned up? I work on medium duty trucks like the isuzu's and C on up. This is why I have more detailed questions. I would be suspecting corrosion bad connection the odd part is you said it was fine before you replaced the timing belt. Doesn't really make sense I have done lots of those belts and never had any electrical problems afterwards.

Nothing was pinched was it? I can't think of a fusable link that would cause that. Have you checked all the fuses in the left and right inside fuse boxes also? I bought the car after the timing belt went.